It was full on rugged elegance, American style, at Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2012. A mix of cozy textures--tweeds, plaids and mohair--were juxtaposed with decadent furs, sleek leather and smooth satin. Lines were longer, cleaner, and proportions fractured at time for both him and her. Sportswear separates, suiting and twinkling evening gowns aside, for me, it was the outerwear that stole the show.
Fur has been cropping up quite a lot this NYFW, making me think that American designers have embraced their clientele as the 1%, all pretense of the "democratization" of fashion swept away with the remnants of the tents at Zuccotti Park, and are pulling back from the "street" airs that have pervaded catwalks for several seasons now. And there's nothing wrong with owning up to their luxury instincts and sealing the deal for next quarter's returns. Kors is a bit like Florida in the Republican Primaries, a bellweather for the nation's conservative sartorial appetite. If Michael hones in on a trend, all the other more polished American designers (and the mainstream consumer) will follow suit.
Thus it was with these decadent oversized fur creations, coyote jackets piled on atop crimson tweed sweater dresses, ivory mongolian vests engulfing tiny blonde modes and a jaw-dropping black aplaca teddy bear duffle coat. Fur also appeared in the form of accent collars and stoles, bags and hats (similar to those sent down the runway by Marc Jacobs). So if Kors is American sportswear's barometer for what's hot and what's not, it looks like this fall, at least where fashion is concerned, is going to be a civilized one.
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